When much of San Francisco shivers in fog, the eastern neighborhoods often bask in sun. Such is the case with Dogpatch and Bayview, two communities straddling Third Street, which parallels the shore of San Francisco Bay. The neighborhoods, both housing a mix of industrial shops and working-class homes, have seen a burgeoning crop of merchants catering to home and food clientele. With many of these merchants clustered on the Third Street corridor, it’s easy to take advantage of the delightful weather and stroll from shop to shop.
Start at 22nd and Third streets, which has become the modern heart of Dogpatch. A half-block walk north on Third will transport you to France. La Fromagerie stocks more than 50 varieties of cheese, most imported from France but also some from Spain, Italy and here in the U.S. Proprietor Ruben Donze is happy to serve samples and recommend accompaniments such as breads (from Firebrand in Oakland), charcuterie, pasta and sauces.
The compact shop is situated in the American Industrial Center, a pair of buildings looming over Third Street. The complex, once the site of the American Can Co., now is home to hundreds of artisans supplying merchants throughout the city and beyond.
Also lucky enough to get storefront space is the first of several wine merchants in the area, Dogpatch WineWorks. Tastings are available, Thursday through Sunday; but there’s this intriguing factor: You can make your own wine here (using their grapes), by the barrel. (A barrel yields 25 cases of wine; go in with several friends to make it economical.) WineWorks also hosts several commercial partner vintners, and produces its own label as well.
Turn east on 22nd Street to another winery in the neighborhood, Sutton Cellars. Vintner Carl Sutton moved his boutique winery from the North Bay to Dogpatch in May 2010 to be closer to his customer base and “to be part of a neighborhood … to operate on a way more human scale.” Weekend tastings feature a farmhouse cider, blended reds, a dry vermouth and a delectable dessert wine.
From Sutton Cellars, it’s a short walk north on Illinois Street to get to Olivier’s Butchery. Olivier Cordier offers quality French and American cuts of meat, sausages prepared on site and a range of “parts” — cheeks, hearts and the like — that would make Anthony Bourdain smile. Open since June 2011, Cordier is proud to be part of the neighborhood, which adjoins what used to be known as Butchertown, the city’s old meat packing district (and is now part of Bayview).
Venture back to the west side of Third Street. At the corner of 22nd, you can fill your custom art framing needs at Frames on 3rd. Styles range from traditional to modern, spare to ornate. Further up 22nd Street, at Minnesota, you’ll find yet another wine merchant, DIG, specializing in French and Italian vintages.
Wine appetite whetted? Stop for a glass and some tasty bites at Yield Wine Bar, on the west side of Third Street. Indulge in more substantial dining across the street at Gilberth’s Rotisserie and Grill or at Serpentine. Or treat yourself to some ice cream at Mr. and Mrs. Miscellaneous, at the corner of Third and 22nd.
Bayview is a short streetcar ride south on Third Street. It’s home to Flora Grubb Gardens, a horticultural oasis on Jerrold Avenue, just west of Third. Serious visits warrant a car, but delights await visitors on foot too. Find everything from towering palms to tiny succulents, plus a carefully curated selection of patio furnishings. Sip a cappuccino — there’s a Ritual Coffee bar on site — and browse, or lounge. If coffee doesn’t quite satisfy, All Good Pizza (across Jerrold) serves tasty pizzas and Panini.
— Terri Hunter-Davis
Weekday parking in Dogpatch can be scarce; however, weekend parking is not difficult on Illinois Street. Both Dogpatch and Bayview are well served by public transit:
- T-Third light rail on Third Street stops at 20th and 23rd streets in Dogpatch, and at Hudson/Innes and Kirkwood/LaSalle in Bayview.
- The 22 Fillmore terminus is at 20th and Third streets.
- The 48 Quintara/24th Street terminus also is at 20th and Third streets.
Where to go
2455 Third St.
(415) 525-4440; http://dogpatchwineworks.com
2425 Third St.
(415) 864-5002; http://lafromageriesf.com/
Frames on 3rd
2500 Third St.
(415) 642-5600; www.frameson3rd.com
601 22nd St.
(707) 874-9466; http://suttoncellars.com
1074 Illinois St.
(415) 558-9887; www.oliviersbutchery.com
1005 Minnesota St.
(415) 648-6133; http://digwinesf.com
Flora Grubb Gardens
1634 Jerrold Ave.
(415) 626-7256; http://floragrubb.com